Over the weekend, Lance Fegen and Lee Ellis’s long-awaited Liberty Kitchen & Oyster Bar finally opened in the former Stop-N-Go on the last remaining corner of 11th St. and Studewood without some sort of restaurant on it. The new neighbor to Someburger, Ruggles 11th St. Cafe, and Dacapo’s Pastry Cafe is now open to the public for dinner.
Excepting, of course, Chronicle food critic Alison Cook: A carefully designed custom decal on the restaurant’s door appears to be the restaurant’s attempt to bar Cook from entry, perhaps to prevent her from penning a Liberty Kitchen review anything like her epic slam of Fegen’s BRC Gastropub last year. Sample sentence from that review: “What to say — besides no, thank you — of BRC’s putative pimento cheese dip that’s a runny splodge of lumpy pinkness on a white plate, with its advertised Vermont cheddar utterly defeated by great gouts of mayonnaise?” Cook’s plea that Liberty Kitchen’s sister restaurant serve the gloppy dip in a ramekin instead is apparently the inspiration for the reference to white plates in this witty comeback only 15 months in the making.
But surely the Liberty Kitchen crew will allow Cook a cup of lukewarm tea in that coffeehouse they’re planning to open next door?
That would be Joe Black’s Coffee House, which Fegen and Ellis will fit into this lazy building behind Liberty Kitchen at 1132 E. 11th St. It’s been vacant for at least 2 decades. According to Culturemap, the cafe will feature outdoor seating under a large ash tree by the parking lot.
- Alison Cook reviews BRC [29-95]
- Liberty Kitchen is almost ready to open in the Heights — and there’s more coming next door [Culturemap]
- Liberty Kitchen [Facebook]
- Previously on Swamplot: The Great Houston Heights Fast Food Slowdown